How to Lay LVT Flooring
- SPC flooring fitting guide - Plank and Herringbone
- Real wood veneer flooring fitting guide - Plank and Herringbone
- 2G LVT fitting guide
- 5Gi LVT fitting guide
- Pronto LVT Herringbone fitting guide
- Spacers and wedges
- A leveller
- A rubber mallet
- A pencil
- A t-square
- A tape measure
- A utility knife
- A tapping block
These are all worth checking before fitting starts, as the requirements can change depending on the LVT range.
Underfloor heating can affect moisture limits and expansion requirements, and for our LVT the floor surface should not exceed 27°C. Wet areas also need to be checked against the exact product, as waterproof performance and room suitability can vary between ranges.
Kitchen units, islands and other fixed features matter too, because LVT is fitted as a floating floor and still needs room to move as intended.
The fitting guide for your chosen floor covers the exact requirements for each of these, so it is worth checking that before installation begins.
Once the floor, substrate and fitting method are sorted, it is worth spending a bit of time on the layout before you start clicking boards together.
Think about which way the boards will run, where the first and final rows are likely to fall and what happens around doorways or other awkward areas. With plank flooring, that usually means thinking about the direction and how the joints will be staggered so the finished floor looks balanced across the room.
Herringbone needs a little more planning because the pattern follows a set sequence, and some ranges use A and B boards that need to be identified before you begin.
It is also worth having your trims, door bars, skirting boards and other finishing pieces in mind at this stage, especially where the flooring meets another room or a different floor level. Getting those details sorted early usually makes the final stages much easier.
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