How to install a wet room shower

1 - Clear the selected area and make sure the floor and walls and secure and clean from dirt and debris. Lift the boarding to establish where the joints are positioned and check for existing pipework and cables that may cause obstructions. 2 - Work out the best position for the wet room tray to allow the drain to sit between two joists. The tray can be set down along the wall edge or spaced away from the wall using plywood or construction board to fill the gap. If using infill pieces at the perimeter, make sure the gradient of the tray is followed to avoid water pooling. Mark the position of the tray on the floor and remove it. 3 - Set a circular saw to the depth of the floorboards and cut a recess for the tray to fit in. When cutting across the joists, the floorboards will need to be cut back to the centre of the next joist so that the floor is properly supported. Check the joists with a spirit level and re-level with packing timber or a chisel f necessary (the floor needs to be level for the gradients of the tray to work). 4 - Mark a horizontal line 18mm down from the top of each joist. Cut and securely screw 1”x2” timber battens so that the 18mm ply infill boards can sit level with the top of the joists.

5 - Cut 18mm exterior plywood boards to fit between each exposed joist. Lay the tray in the recess and mark the centre of the drain hole. Remove the tray and cut a 130mm diameter hole central to the marked position. You need to ensure that the height of the surrounding floor matches the final thickness of your wet room tray, boards or Durabase matting can be used to raise the height. 6 - Lift the cut out board and construct a shelf approx. 90mm down from the top of the infill board/joist, between the joists to position the waste trap. The trap needs to be central to the hole with the rubber seal level or just below the top surface of the surrounding ply board once back in place. The trap itself must not be load bearing. 7 - If using a solvent weld pipe, fit the ring and seal on to the adapter and screw them to the trap. Apply solvent to the adapter and pipe and fit together, securing the pipe with pipe clips or suitable supports. Check the joint is watertight as this area cannot be accessed again once the tray is in place. Then check the trap position again and screw the infill boards down. 8 - If you’ve had to cut extra flooring away to reach a supporting joist, screw down a piece of the original flooring or a board of equal thickness to fill in the floor, leaving a recess the size of the shower tray.

1 - The floor must be secure, completely free of movement and level. Clear the area and clean it up then lift the floorboarding to establish the joist positions and check for existing pipework and cables which may cause obstructions. 2 - Work out the best position for your tray, allowing the drain to sit between two joists. The tray can be set down along the wall edge or spaced away from the wall using plywood or construction board to fill the gap. If using infill pieces at the perimeter, make sure the gradient of the tray is followed to avoid water pooling. Once positioned, construct a shelf, approx. 90mm down from the top of the existing floor. The trap will sit on this with the rubber seal level or just below the top of the surrounding floorboards once back in place. The trap itself must not be load bearing. 3 - Before connecting the trap, loosely lay the floorboarding back in place and use the tray to mark the drain hole, remove it and then cut a 130mm diameter hole central to the marked position. Take the floorboards back up to access the waste connections. 4 - If using a solvent weld pipe, fit the ring and seal on to the adapter and screw them to the trap. Apply solvent to the adapter and pipe and fit together, securing the pipe with pipe clips or suitable supports. Check the joint is watertight as this area cannot be accessed again once the tray is in place. 5 - Fix the floorboards back down leaving the trap positioned through the previously cut hole. Securely fix the floor down with screws.

1 - Check for existing pipework and cables in the concrete which may obstruct the route of the new waste pipe and identify the best orientation for the wet room tray. Clear the selected area and ensure the floor and walls are clean, free from dust and debris. 2 - Check the floor with a spirit level and level it out with a levelling compound if necessary. 3 - The tray can be set down along the wall edge or spaced away from the wall using plywood or construction board to fill the gap. If using infill pieces at the perimeter, make sure the gradient of the tray is followed to avoid water pooling. Using the tray as a template, mark the drain position and chisel the concrete away to fir the trap and waste pipe. The rubber seal of the trap should be level with the existing floor surface but the trap should not be load bearing. 4 - Connect the trap to the waste pipe, checking it’s still in line with the hole in the tray. If using a 43mm solvent weld pipe, fit the ring and seal on to the adapter and screw them to the trap. Apply solvent to the adapter and pipe and fit together. Check the joint is watertight as this area cannot be accessed again once the tray is in place. 5 - Fill around the pipe and trap with concrete or expanding foam. Before set in position, double check the trap lines up with the hole in the tray and the threaded ring can be screwed through the tray into the trap.

1 - Screw the threaded ring into the trap using the key to tighten it. If the trap isn’t tight up against the bottom of the tray, use the wire lifter supplied to raise it whilst screwing the top ring. Pour water into the drain hole to check for any leaks before concealing the plumbing again. 2 - Drop in the hair catcher and cover and then screw the drain body to the height of the floor tiles being used. The metal frame should sit just below the final tile height to ensure the water doesn’t pool around the drain. 3 - With the flat edge of a trowel, pack tile adhesive up against the drain body to provide further support and hold in place. 4 - You’re then ready to tile and grout the floor around the drain, take care to wipe away any excess adhesive and grout from the drain body. Then you can place the grate.

1 - The drain body is height adjustable to suit floor tiles (from 6-16mm thickness), if your tiles are greater than 7mm, use the self-adhesive spacers supplied to raise the drain body. Peel back the tape backing and stick to the matting under the drain body. 2 - Place the metal drain body in its footprint and screw the threaded centre ring into the trap below using the key to tighten it. Pour water down the drain hole to check for any leaks before concealing the plumbing. 3 - Tile and grout the floor, ensuring to remove any excess adhesive and grout. Drop in the hair catcher and cover and then place the grate into the drain body.