Herringbone is a stylishly timeless option for your floor, our laminate flooring is easy to fit, perfect for DIY enthusiasts or those with a smaller budget.
As well as the tools below, don’t forget that you will also need to purchase scotia beading (to hide the expansion gaps), finishing profiles (also known as door bars) for any doorways and transitions to other floors and, if installing a bathroom, a Hydro+ 2 in 1 kit or expansion strips.
Spaces | Saw | Adhesive Tape | Ruler | Pencil | Tape Measure | Pull Bar | Wedges | Tapping Block | Rubber Mallet
Calculate the room surface prior to installation, and depending on the shape of the installation area, plan an extra 15-20% of flooring for cutting waste due to the herringbone pattern).
Before storing or laying your new flooring, all under floor moisture should be rectified, with any construction dampness being completely dry.
You’ll then need to acclimatise the flooring by storing it in the unopened box at room temperature for at least 48 hours before you begin the installation.
Before and during the installation, the room temperature should be between 18-30°C with a relative humidity of 30-65%. After installation it should be 15-35°C with a relative humidity of 30-65%.
When unboxing your flooring, each herringbone plank is marked with either an L (left) or R (right), indicating the different profiling directions. It would be best to arrange these into organised piles before starting to ensure you don’t mix them up as they always need to be installed in pairs.
Make sure you use the correct side of the plank. If cutting with a jig saw, the laminate surface should be face down. If you’re using a hand saw, the laminate should face upwards. Always cut in a ventilated area and it’s best to use protective equipment such as a dust mask.
In the following diagrams, the grey blocks represent the right planks and the white represents the left.
Align the first starting set with a chalk line, going through the centre line of the room (to centre the installation make sure the line goes through the point of the pattern), leaving a 6mm expansion gap at the wall.
Each starting set is 884mm wide, measure how many starts you’ll need based on the width of the room. You can connect the starting sets with one full plank.
When you reach the walls on both sides, measure the distance between the wall and the closest starting set. Assemble a new set, mark the measured distance on it and then cut the plank to size then install it into the gap (the set can be disassembled when cutting).
Continue this pattern until the room is completely covered.
If you have to cut holes for pipes, measure the diameter of the pipe and drill a hole that is 12mm larger. Saw off a piece and lay the board in place on the floor, then lay the sawed-off piece in place.
For door mouldings and skirtings, lay a board (with the decorative side face down) next to the door and saw across. You should then be able to slide the flooring underneath the door frame (remember to leave an expansion joint).
To finish your floor around the edges, use a scotia. If you’re transitioning between floor types, leave a 10mm gap between the planks and the adjoining surface and then use a scotia to cover the exposed edge, making sure not to pinch the planks.
If you have skirting, do not nail the skirting to the floor but the wall surface instead to ensure the flooring stays floating.
If you need to remove a plank to adjust it or simply taking your floor with you when you move, you can disassemble laminate flooring carefully. To separate the planks, leave them flat on the ground and slide them apart. If they don’t part easily, you can slightly lift the planks at a 5° angle when sliding them apart.
Now you’ve installed your new herringbone laminate flooring, learn how to keep it clean and in tip top condition with our laminate cleaning guide.
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