How to fit herringbone engineered wood flooring

Recreate the look of classic herringbone flooring with its natural characteristics, varying shade and abstract graining with the practical aspect of engineered wood flooring that’s built to last. Read our guide on what engineered wood flooring is if you’re still unsure but here’s a simple to follow guide to laying it properly if you’re after a DIY makeover.

Before installing your new floor, ensure the substrate is moisture free and any construction dampness has completely dried out. Although the Ornes flooring range is designed with bathroom installation in mind, it is not waterproof and therefore can’t get excessively wet. If you’re using this flooring in conjunction with underfloor heating, then water based heating systems require a screed of 50mm deep (as per building regulations) and electric systems need a 13mm thick screed.

Acclimatise your floorboards, it’s ideal to store your planks in the room you are fitting them at room temperature (20-25°C at 30-65% relative humidity) for at least 12 hours in the unopened packaging. Only open them up when you start the installation.

The Ornes engineered wood flooring range has an integrated 1mm thick cork underlay so now you can crack on with fitting the floor. When unpackaging your planks, they are labelled with an L (left) and R (right), it’s a good idea to sort these into piles before you start so you’re always reaching for the correct pieces. In this fitting guide, the L pieces are represented in white and the R pieces in grey.

To cut your planks, use a utility know and a ruler. With the top side facing up, cut heavily and several times on the same axis to ensure the knife cuts through the wood veneer. You can then lift the cut edge up and down to split the plank naturally.

Calculate the floor dimensions. Depending on the dimensions of the space, a herringbone pattern can require up to 15-20% more due to cutting waste. Follow the cutting template on your box to cut the first 5 pieces to create your starting set.

To click the pieces into place, place the short end tight to the perpendicular plank. Click it into the long end of the parallel panel at a 45° angle. Then, fold it down in a single movement and tap the planks on the edge after clicking them together to ensure a tight fit. If you notice both planks aren’t the same height or not well locked together, dissemble the planks and check for debris inside the lock which might be obstructing it.

Align the first set with a chalk line going through the centre of the room as this will help centre your installation (the line should go through the tip of the starting set). Remember to leave a 6mm expansion gap at the wall. Each set is 884mm wide so measure how many sets you’ll need to complete the width of the room and then start connecting them with one full plank.

Once you reach the other side, measure the space between the last set and the wall (including the 6mm expansion gap) and cut the planks in the next set to fit. Continue this technique until you’ve completed the room.

If you need to create holes for pipes, measure the diameter of the pipe and drill a hole 12mm larger. Saw through the centre of the drilled holes and then lay the boards either side of the pipe. For door frames, lay the board (decorative side down) next to the door moulding and saw the frame away, the plank should then slide under the frame once you’ve turned it over.

To finish your floor around the edges, use a scotia. If you’re transitioning between floor types, leave a 10mm gap between the planks and the adjoining surface and then use a scotia to cover the exposed edge, making sure not to pinch the planks. If you’re installing skirting, do not nail the skirting to the floor but the wall surface instead to ensure the flooring stays floating.

Now you’ve installed your new herringbone flooring, learn how to keep it clean and in tip top condition with our engineered wood cleaning guide.