Tiling Steps: How To Tile a Staircase

Tiling steps is a unique way to brighten up a hallway or outdoor area, here we provide a practical solution to help you with a difficult project.

Measure the length and width of each step you are going to tile with a tape measure, don’t forget to include the vertical length of the risers – these are the back surfaces that make the stairs ascend, facing your feet.

Multiply the two measurements together and you will get the number of square meters you will need. For irregular shaped areas, divide the area up into different segments to work out individually, and then add together.

Remember to allow for an extra 10% for any breakages, cuts and wastage. If you are tiling in a brick bond pattern then 10-15% is advised. If you are unsure, simply take your measurements (height and width) of each step you are tiling into your local store and they’ll be able to advise you.

With any floor tile careful consideration should be given to its suitability and its slip resistance, particularly if you’re looking to tile external steps. You may want to consider adding a slip resistant stair nosing for added security.

The concrete must be at least 6 weeks old to enable movement, caused by drying shrinkage, to have taken place. The concrete must be flat, clean, dry and free from dust, laitance and any other contaminants which may act as a release agent, preventing the adhesive from bonding to the concrete. If the concrete is dusty, dry brush with a wire brush and remove the loose dust.

Brush apply BAL APD primer, diluted 1:1 with water, to reduce the absorbency of the concrete and suppress dust. Before commencing the tiling process the substrate should be confirmed dry. If in doubt, a moisture reading should be taken to confirm.

Ensure the step is level using a spirit level, if not, use a suitable levelling compound, this will ensure a professional finish. On an outside step you may wish to consider a bullnose tile to give a clean finish along the edge.

Tiles can be fixed to almost all flooring substrates as long as they are properly prepared. The floor must suitably level, clean, dry, free of dust, grease or any loose material. All surfaces must be completely secure without any obvious movement (known as deflection).

As well as removing the deflection from the stairs you may need to reinforce the stairs themselves to handle the additional weight of the tiles. Seek professional advice on how to strengthen your stairs.

Prepare the wooden stairs and the surrounding area for tile installation by remove any trims, carpet, rugs or other items from the stairwell area. Ensure all nails, tacks or staples from the wooden stairs.

Cut the nose board from the front of each step, the nose board is the portion of the step tread that extends past the vertical backboard (or riser) of each step. Cut the nose board flush with the riser using either a jig saw, multi tool or circular saw. Sand the cut area to create a smooth and flat work surface. Sand first with a sander then finish by hand with sandpaper. Remove dust and other debris from the steps. Sweep the area, then wipe down each step with a damp cloth or sponge.

Once the step has been prepared you may need to overboard, consider using WBP grade plywood at least 15mm thick. Before laying the boards you will need to seal the back face and edges with undiluted BAL Bond SBR.

The biggest problem when tiling on a wooden stair is that each step will be moving up and down, this is called deflection, meaning a slight spring or bounce can be felt as you walk upon this type of substrate. If this movement isn’t corrected before tiling then there is high likelihood of grout cracking or falling out of joints or tiles lifting and cracking.

If the structure is considered to be sufficiently free from deflection, the floor will be deemed suitable to receive a tiled finish. To check the rigidity of the steps, a glass tumbler should be filled to the rim with water and placed in the centre of each step. Standing either side of the tumbler, bounce up and down on the step. If the water spills out of the glass then the floor would require strengthening.

It should be noted however that in some installations, even when strengthened with an overlay, a staircase may still not be able to support the additional weight of tiling without excessive deflection.

Once the applicable preparation work has been completed you are now ready to tile. Start tiling on the top step and work your way down.

The general rule is to work from the centre outwards so the main aim is to make sure the centre of each step is positioned correctly. Mark a middle point on every riser. That’s where your initial tile should be set down. The others will be laid alongside it, at either end.

If you’re tiling a wooden/ internal staircase, we recommend you use BAL Single part Fast Flex adhesive due to its rubber like flexibility properties. For concrete or external steps opt for the BAL Rapid Flex Fibre. Mix the chosen adhesive as directed on its packaging.

When tiling the steps, start with the risers. Apply the tiles to the face of a vertical step riser, lining up the upper edge of the tile flush with the edge of the horizontal stair tread, and using your trowel to apply adhesive to the back of the tiles.

When installing the stair raisers, you have to use a L-square, as to make sure they are plumb. This aspect is very important, as to make sure you tile the stairs properly. When checking this aspect, you have to use the L-square on both sides of the step.

Apply the tiles to the stair tread surface, lining up the edge of the tile flush with the edge of the vertical stair riser tile (installed previously. Place the tile on the bed of adhesive, press down and twist and slide into place to ensure the adhesive sticks properly (for larger tiles, it may require a thin layer of adhesive on the back of the tile as well as the step).

Put the spirit level/straightedge on the tile in both directions to ensure it is even and flat then insert a tile spacer in between each tile.

Do not push the tile down so it fits flush on top of your stair raiser tile, there will be a gap which you will fill with grout. If the tile sits directly on top of the tile it will cause undue stress and pressure leading to cracks, chips and even the tile coming away from the stairs.

Use a minimum of 3mm spacers for internal steps and 2mm for outdoor steps to achieve consistent gaps between tiles. Trim any tiles to fit, using a tile cutter. See here our basic guide for cutting tiles.

Once tiled allow, where possible, 24 hours for the adhesive to fully set (check the bag for setting times).

We would recommend a product like BAL Micromax3 which has matching silicone available to complete the perimeter expansion joint.

For a full and informative guide on how to grout click here.

The following day the face of the tiles will require a final wash down. For porcelain, ceramic, terracotta, quarry and acid resistant stone use the Fila Porcelain Cement Residue Remover. If you've used natural stone tiles or terrazzo then opt for the Stone Cement Residue Remover.

Using cleanup pads, remove the polymers left behind by the grout. Failure to remove the polymers can leave a haze across the surface of the tiles. Once dry use a clean polishing cloth over the tiles until completely clean.

You may want to consider sealing your tile to protect it against stains, ask your local store for advice to match the correct product to your tile needs.

Learn how to clean your tiles to keep them looking brand new for longer with our cleaning guide.