Hardiebacker 250 Cement Board - 6mm
Excellent product to go over an existing wood floor
I used this product as a base for a Victorian tiled floor, the sub-base was an original sawn edge Victorian wooden floor boarded floor.
original floor was screwed firmly down and I fixed the Hardie boards with screws as well, I also opted to go over the top with a quality flexible leveller.
This amount of prep is needed when the floor that is being laid exceeds Â£200 per sq metre !
21 February 2015
does what it does
recently tilled my kitchen floor and wanted to both strengthen and level out the wood based kitchen before tilling.
First off the guys at Topps are great.. very helpful and went out of their way to help me load the car and even provided covers to protect my cars interior as these boards are dusty.
The price of the boards are a touch high but if you want to do a job right you sometimes just have to pay. I had to buy Â£90 quids worth of these boards to cover my kitchen floor.
The boards themselves are well built and easy to cut and snap parts off to fit awkward sections.
Its also easy to screw them down and edge together with the tape.
Once down I could already feel the difference when standing on them. Tilling was then far easier to create a flat level finish and provided an easier job to complete.
26 August 2014
Not Very Impressed
James Hardie boasts about its EZ Grid pattern of squares and recessed securing points, and suggests in the installation manual that you should use the grid as a guide. I suggest that you DO NOT use the "chocolate bar" squares (or rather the horizontal and vertical lines formed by them) as a guide, because the pattern stamped into sheets I bought was crooked.
If you take a rectangular sheet of something and brand it with a pattern of squares intended as a guide, you would expect the vertical and horizontal lines to be parallel with the left, right, top, and bottom of the board. If they are running off, like sticking a stamp onto an envelope crooked, then the guide is useless.
I ended up cutting two sheets to the wrong dimensions by scoring down what I believed was a line parallel to the edges of the board where my measurements conveniently matched one of them. I was left with trapeziod-shaped boards in each case until I discovered that the grid was stamped onto the boards any old way.
This is a manufacturer's quality control issue, and one that Topps Tiles are obviously not at all in control of nor responsible for.
I recommend that you measure everything and ignore the square grid when scoring and snapping these boards.
Additionally, do not expect to get a terribly clean edge after scoring and snapping. You will be left with a slightly ragged edge that extends beyond the line you measured to and scored, and in some instances the board layers separate like a broken wafer biscuit. This requires cleaning up with a Surform file or an angled "Stanley" knife if your measurements had a very close tolerance to fit.
I also found that these boards vary in density. In some places they are rock hard, and in other places they are quite soft and fibrous, almost chalky. The screws squealed when boring into the rock hard parts of the board and didn't go flush without risk of overdriving, but almost disappeared right through the softer parts, so care should be exercised when using a power driver.
Do not expect the "smooth" side of the board to be smooth enough to paint onto and have a nice smooth surface. They are pretty rough, and would require a fine skim of bnormal plaster before painting.
01 November 2012
Wish I had Used this Company from the start
Unfortunately I discovered this Company too late otherwise I would have ordered all my tiling needs from them. They are very competitive and efficient.
07 April 2012